Cap-Ferret: Shelter

There’s something about beach towns.  Even opulent beach towns.  So much beauty in the weathering. Unlike giant cement cities, which seem so solid and indestructible, a little town by the ocean carries a sense of organic impermanence.  Like a sand castle.  Enjoy it while it’s here, because even now it is slowly, slowly washing away.

My camera isn’t super-fancy (not that I would know how to use a super-fancy camera if I had one! ha), so there’s a lot about the light and texture that I can’t get, but still, something of the color and gorgeous aging in this place comes through.

Les Galippettes: home of our friends the Chamaillards
Les Galippettes: home of our friends the Chamaillards

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Friends, Meet Les Bébés Chamaillard

Photo credit: Proud Papa

The Chamaillard and Loncke families have a long history together.  Forty years ago, my dad met Patrick Chamaillard at law school, and the two became lifelong friends.  Dad visited the Chamaillards in France many times; he still remembers the stories Patrick’s father (who, coincidentally, taught at Harvard as a visiting professor in, like, 1929) used to tell about kings and banquets and eels. I myself am named after Patrick’s late wife, a luminous, beloved, big-hearted woman who died of cancer before I was born.

As teenagers, in the early nineties or so, the three Chamaillard children — Melanie, Laure, and Guillaume — each spent a summer with our family in California.  (I was wee so I don’t remember too much about it, but to this day Melanie can still recite our address.)  And now, all the children have children of their own.  This week was my chance to meet the new generation.

Laure gave birth to beautiful twins: Bastien, on my lap in the photo above, and his brother Hugo.  So sweet and curious.  Can’t hardly feed ’em in the high chair, they’re so busy looking around the room.

Melanie has a wonderful baby daughter, Juliette.  Alert, full of smiles; loves it when you whistle. I stayed overnight and she didn’t cry even once, bless her heart.

And Guillaume’s daughter, Thelma, three-and-a-half, eluded my camera, on account of we were too busy reading and playing games with dad and granddad.  (Girl has got some energy.  Destined for soccer, just like her papa.)  We read a couple English Roger Hargreaves books (whose covers, to my delight, have started appearing on t-shirts lately), the French versions of which were some of my very first reading material as a little tyke.  And the circle of life continues…

Email 5: end of the camino, end of the emails. (short! promise! :)

From the final email update, June 7th:

dear family and friends,

i hope you are well, and smiling, and excited for the coming of summer.

this email will be short — partly out of embarrassment at the ridiculous length of the last one, and partly because, well, what i got to say is pretty simple.

first of all, the 25-day, 700-kilometer walking pilgrimage i made across spain last month reinforced, among other things (including calf muscles — with which i could now easily heel-kick all four noses off mount rushmore), my tremendous gratitude for the love of folks like you. i don’t know what i did in past lives to deserve such great people in this one, but whatever it was, it must have been good. like, mother-teresa-type good. or nina-simone-type good. in any case, every stunningly beautiful experience i had — every charming plaza and thrumming cathedral and cheerful bloodbath of red wildflowers; every peaceful moment alone and every joyful moment with others — i owe in part to you. i owe it to you because i can only see such beauty when i feel very beautiful, and i can only feel that beautiful when i understand myself as a composite of the people i love.

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Email 4, Part 5: Newly Armstrong/Watermelon Woman

From email update May 5th:

NEWLY ARMSTRONG/ WATERMELON WOMAN

I’ve had a lot of different muscles in my life. Golf muscles, gym muscles, bharata natyam muscles, yoga muscles. So far, these volunteer muscles from the meditation center are my favorites. Stirring mammoth cake batters gives you serious triceps, folks.

And in other news of changing bodies, my head now looks like a watermelon. Not in a bad way, just in the sense that I have no hair, because a friend buzzed it off for me. The effect is somewhere between the Dalai Lama and Ani DiFranco. And it seems to have heightened the ethnic ambiguity. But it’s wonderful, tingly, and perfect for a pilgrimage (see “WALKIN’ “), where showers will be scarce and too much hair would prove a nuisance.

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Well friends, that’s it for now! Wish me luck — at least half of what I wish for you.

Con amor y abrazos,

katie